I hope that by now anyone following this series of articles is contemplating setting up their own kitchen fitting business or wondering how to sell the expensive tools they think they invested in before the plaster fell off the walls, the pipes flooded the kitchen and Wall. collapsed units.
To those of you who have already signed the van, congratulations, and to those of you who are filling out the “tools for sale” ads, hang fire, replace that pen with a cordless drill, and don’t give up so easily.
Choosing the right base units
Base units come in various configurations and are available in flat or rigid formats. The thickness of the boards, construction methods and accessories also highlight the differences between manufacturers. Most have adjustable legs to facilitate assembly and prevent the entry of water.
Speaking as a former installer, my personal choice for strength and longevity would be to go for a case of at least 18mm construction with a back of at least 9mm thick board and soft close drawer boxes with metal sides again with a solid base of at least 15 mm board. Rigid drives will save installation time but otherwise have no significant advantage over flat pack drives.
Many manufacturers build coordinated casings to match their door finishes. This is a useful advantage when the ends are visible, but alternatively you can install a coordinated end support panel or even a door panel.
Most casings are constructed from melamine-faced chipboard and particular attention should be paid to the sink base casing, which will be extremely vulnerable to water ingress during its lifetime. To counter this problem I have developed a product called Unitsaver. I hasten to add that I am still awaiting a call from a cabinet maker who sees the product as a great addition to their range, so until then I am afraid it is not available to the consumer.
Tools needed for the job.
– Cordless screwdriver
-Manual tools
-Puzzle
– 5mm HSS drill bit
– 50mm, 25mm, 30mm and 16mm screws
– Pair of clamps
– Hole saws
-Spirit level
– Measuring tape
– Electric drill
– Compass and pencil.
– Safety equipment: glasses, dust mask, etc.
– Extension cord
The accessory
Assembly should start in the corner of the kitchen. Starting at the highest point of the floor, a level line should be transferred to the walls marking the final height of your cabinets.
Corner cabinets are generally available in two configurations, an L-shaped unit, usually 900mm wide, and a conventional corner cabinet available in sizes from 900mm to 1200mm. If the design allows, then one, the other or both will be suitable for your kitchen.
Adjust the feet to make sure the cabinet is flush and using a spirit level, adjust to make sure the unit is plumb and level. Continue the previous method with all subsequent units and fasten them making sure all edges are flush and level.
To connect the units together, use clamps inside the units to join the units at both the top and bottom, making sure the front and top edges are flush. When clamping together, protect the units by using chipboard or similar behind the clamping jaws.
Remove one screw from each of the hinge back plates and rotate the back plate to expose the area behind. Using a 5mm wood bit, partially drill out the first shell behind the hinge back plate and attach with a cordless screwdriver using 30mm screws for 18mm units and 25mm screws for 15mm units. Replace the back plate and secure it. This will serve to hide the fixation. However, if both units connect on the closing side of the doors, use the same procedure and cap the screws.
Where the ends are not visible it is advantageous to cut the service void from the bottom of the cabinets leaving 80mm of the full cabinet depth from the top of the unit. This will serve to overcome any actual plastering behind the base units and provide an easy means of routing cables behind the units after mounting.
Most manufacturers use a service gap of approximately 50mm at the rear of the base units and this is essential not only for plumbing and electrical services but also for marking walls if required. To make sure there are no visible gaps where the last unit meets the wall, you may need to trace the cabinet. To do this, level the cabinet and clamp it to the adjoining cabinet leaving it 30mm overhanging the front edge, clamp the units together, position the compass 30mm between the pencil and the point and run the point of the compass along the wall keeping it parallel to the compass The tip of the pencil. The pencil line left on the casing will act as a guide for cutting with a jigsaw. After cutting, fit the cabinet as described above. This will leave a perfect finish on the wall.
When all the cabinets are level and in place, they will need to be attached to the walls. This will only be necessary on alternate gables. Fasten a 25mm square bracket to the wall and against the inside of a gable end. Mark through the bracket with a pencil to the wall and drill at a downward angle. Insert a plug and fix it to the wall with a 50mm screw. Attach the bracket to the cabinet pediment with a 16mm screw.
mounting fixtures
One important thing to remember is, when installing a conventional corner cabinet that has an appliance installed in the return, to allow enough clearance for the door to open 90? and to make sure the appliance door has room to open without touching the door handle. This may require the installation of a field fabricated corner fillet, but will ensure that your dishes can be placed in a fully open dishwasher.
Remember to align the base cabinet of the hob with the extractor. This task takes priority over all others for the efficient operation of the extractor. It may be necessary to change the position of the corner unit, but this can be modified by again using a filler at the base of the corner.
When installing built-in appliances, you will need to leave a gap between cabinets. Using a straight piece of wood or skirting, flush fit the already level cabinets and use it as a guide to install the next cabinet, making sure to leave the correct spacing between the units and this applies to both front and back. This method also applies when units are installed on either side of a freestanding kitchen or range.
Well that’s it, you’re ready for countertops, they come in various materials, laminate being the most popular. In the next article I will be explaining how to install your countertops and appliances.
Finally, for those of you who are still debating whether to call your nearest kitchen fitters, I’d like to offer a few words of encouragement.
My first installation took place within the confines of the Southport Zoo. I just had an assortment of hand tools, a power drill, a second-hand jigsaw, and a strong desire to complete my first kitchen without a hitch. This I did, after three weeks.
It took me so long to complete that they put up a glass screen for visitors to see the monkey setting up the kitchen.
So don’t throw in the towel, don’t sell the tools, put on those overalls and give it another chance. It’s so easy a monkey could do it.
You can find any questions or more information on our popular kitchen buyers forum.
Next article: Installation of kitchen countertops
©T Foley 2009