Palm trees and wildflowers, and thankfully little else, adorn Barbados’ rugged east (and north) coastline. Aside from a few private homes and modest commercial structures, the east coast of Barbados looks a lot like it should have done 100 years ago.
Why would such a utopia remain undeveloped? Not because the ruling fathers of Barbados protect the beautiful rugged coastline, but because the Atlantic Ocean does.
And what beauty awaits you! In collusion with time, the crashing sea has eroded giant boulders along the shoreline into beautiful giant stone sculptures. But the waves lashing along Barbados’ east coast offer no mercy to anyone foolish enough to enter.
However, there is one who enters: the world-class surfer. The “soup bowl” in Bathsheba attracts serious surfers from all over the world.
We mortals are content with the still pools of very hot seawater pools in which we hunt tiny forms of marine life and use them as nature’s hot tubs.
I know that the winds off the east coast of Barbados contain a sedative; when I stay for the weekend, I walk and sit in the warm sea pools and marvel at the wonders of life, and then go back to my modest hotel room and sleep. And then sleep some more. When I visit the East Coast, I can take two naps during the day and still work eight hours at night.
Accommodation on the East Coast of Barbados:
Which brings us to where to stay. Surfers often rent private seaside homes that have seen better days. Visitors with good sense, if not on a more generous budget, stay at one of these modest hotels:
* round house: Located in one of the most beautiful settings in the world, Bathsheba, Barbados, this former home has been converted into a popular restaurant of the same name with a handful of rooms for rent upstairs.
The rooms are basic but spotless and comfortable. Lounge on your balcony overlooking nature’s exquisite handiwork of verdant hills, vibrant wildflowers, and the magnificent and mighty ocean. Then go back inside, open all the windows and let the sound of the ocean and lazy breeze lull you to a baby’s sleep.
Wherever you stay on the island, the Round House restaurant is a must-see; reserve a table outside on a Sunday afternoon, order a rum punch, watch the surfers and listen to the wonderful musician Aubrey, singing smooth jazz tunes.
* Bucket: As you sit or lie in a hammock strung between two coconut trees some 50 feet above the Atlantic Ocean in Bathsheba, you know you’re in a whole different world (apparently, one where names like “Sea-U” were invented! !). Welcoming, personal, great home-cooked breakfasts…and if you’re an experienced, capable and brave surfer, the famous Soup Bowl is just a short walk down the hill and out to sea. However, even if you don’t like surfing, this place offers a fantastic retreat from real life. Even if the accommodations are stylish, the setting surely is. Go to http://SeaUBarbados.com for more information; the website is first class.
* Hotel: The setting is beautiful, high above the Atlantic Ocean and there is a pool…but the rooms and restaurant could do with an update, in my opinion. However, for viewing nature at work, like all the places on this list, the location can’t be beat. I went very early one morning hoping to catch the sunrise with my morning tea. Instead of sunshine, however, I was greeted by a rain storm, offering one of the most dramatic displays of Mother Nature’s muscle I have ever witnessed.
* Hotel Atlantida: Recently acquired by the owners of the divine Fish Pot Restaurant and the very special Little Good Harbor Hotel on the west coast of Barbados, Barbados’ legendary Atlantis Hotel will soon rise again. As I write this in the summer of 2009, the former Bathsheba estate is undergoing a dramatic transformation into a charming destination: a ten-bedroom bed & breakfast. Visit the AtlantisHotelBarbados website to stay up to date and look towards the end of 2009 for the completion of this exciting and fitting addition to the east coast of Barbados.
That concludes this three-part look at each face of the diverse island of Barbados: the chic and serene Caribbean face of the West Coast, the upbeat and casual face of the South Coast, and the pristine, natural face of the East Coast. Like women, each beautiful in her own way.