The rugged Pacific coast beckons. Sunlight filters through eucalyptus trees and grassy knolls. The wind from the sea clears your thoughts as dreams come true. It is the unspoiled beauty of Mendocino County, California.
Sometimes I travel alone, but this time I brought my husband James, my daughter Lauren, and my dog Honey with me as we embarked on a wonderful adventure.
In the winter, there’s nothing like the romance of putting another log on the fire while you snuggle up with your loved ones inside a beautifully decorated room at an inn. On the way to Mendocino, our first stop was the Gualala Country Inn, dressed in cheery French Provincial blue and yellow with its cozy lounge. The rooms are intimate and face the ocean. The owners are calm and reserved to allow you a particularly peaceful stay.
That first night, the three of us enjoyed an excellent meal at the Phoenix restaurant in Gualala. Rack of lamb, snapper, eggplant parmesan and fettuccine was the order of the night paired with an impressive wine list from nearby wineries. In its casual elegance, we enjoyed our meal with great appetite.
The next morning was brisk and cheerful as we made our way down the coast to visit the
B. Bryan African Hoofed Animals Sanctuary at Point Arena. It is quite unexpected to see a zebra grazing the shoreline and antelope and kudu grazing on the hillside. My family and our guide piled into a Gator and we found ourselves hiking through 105 acres of land dotted with exotic and endangered wildlife. The owners, Frank and Judy Mello, constantly go out of their way to accommodate their beautiful animals, and each species has its own stable. More than 30 animals call this special place home, and we were able to enjoy them up close and personal. It is especially good to be able to see them in open spaces to observe their funny behavior in a natural environment. It is not a zoo, but rather a private facility dedicated to protecting and raising endangered animals. Following? A giraffe stable to house three long-necked friends arriving later this year.
There is something magical about a lighthouse. Lauren was especially excited when we arrived at the Point Arena Lighthouse station. She climbed more than 100 steps to the top, catching a spectacular bird’s-eye view of the coastline. Built in 1870, it is one of the oldest lighthouses in the country, finally built after hundreds of ships were wrecked on the coast during the 19th century.
The rough seas wove a spell of mystery as we cruised along the winding coastal road in search of the Heritage House. In Little River, this hotel is one of the most luxurious places to enjoy a winter weekend. His signature bright red door opens and his staff literally welcomed us with open arms. Nestled among a grove of trees and meticulously manicured grounds, Heritage House is the ultimate rendezvous. Our room was right on the edge of a cliff, and James made a crackling fire. White robes hung inside the closet, accompanied by matching slippers. The room was decorated with Asian influences, with tatami mat floors, brass tables, metallic hues, and large windows that led to the spacious terrace that had Adirondack chairs with ocean views. A fully stocked wine cellar was also tempting along with crystal decanters filled with the finest cognac and brandy.
Dinner was served in the elegant dining room of the Heritage House. It was a five-course meal, highlighting appetizers of butternut squash gnocchi, roast duck, seafood chowder and garden salads.
We returned to our suite that night to find the beds fluffy with duvets and mattresses. They left a bottle of champagne later that night when they turned down our beds while we were eating and exploring.
We woke up to the whistle of espresso in the background as we bundled up for our whale watching trip with Captain Tim. All Aboard Adventures in nearby Noyo Harbor arranged our excursion, and we were shivering in the icy wind as wave after wave bounced off our 45-foot fishing boat. Lauren learned to fish for crabs, and to our delight, we raised several dozen angry crustaceans. As the boat tilted forward for the hundredth time that morning, we saw a pod of gray whales in the distance. Following their fins was not hard to do as there were dozens of huge whales all around us. In fact, at this time each year, California gray whales (and to a lesser extent humpback, blue, and killer whales) can be seen making their annual migration at the rate of dozens of pods per hour, with some pods containing up to 20 whales each. . After three hours on the open sea, we were invited back later for a dinner of freshly steamed crab.
Elements Spa at Heritage House was my next stop as James and Lauren went to the crab dinner without me. He had other things in mind. I was exfoliated from head to toe with a small brush. The spa owner, Laura Boohers, then applied a refreshing face mask and massaged me with lavender oil. My feet and hands were dipped in paraffin to soften my skin. An hour and a half later, receiving a full body and facial massage, I was restored and feeling blissful.
Dinner that night was in Mendocino at the renowned Café Beaujolais. Our host seated us at a nice table with flickering candles and an endless wine list. The food was divine; with Cast Iron Skillet Roasted Sonoma Free Range Duck Breast, Pan Seared Wild Colombian River Sturgeon with Truffle Emulsion Sauce and Grilled Swordfish accompanied by Roasted Red Pepper Mashed Potatoes and Artichokes. Their wine list is extensive, featuring Shramsberg Blanc de Blancs champagne, Ferrari-Carano chardonnay, and Pride Mountain Vineyard merlot. Dessert was delicious, highlighting the coconut cream cake and caramel sauce along with sour cream cheesecake and a Ghiradelli chocolate lava cake with hazelnut ice cream.
We returned to our room feeling satiated. We just laze around reading, talking, and playing with our sheltie, offering her some bits of roast chicken from the evening’s leftovers.
The morning came too soon, so we slept lazily. He didn’t want us to go home; would break the spell. Lauren went down to breakfast. We loaded our truck and left.
After a few bites of soft pastries, we headed into Mendocino to do some shopping. I found a pair of gold Chinese slippers and a journal for Lauren. I also bought cologne from the Perfumery along with a pair of jeans, socks, and a travel bag from “Fancy That,” which is a fabulous downtown boutique with reasonably priced luxury clothing. It is one of the stores designated as a special part of “Spendocino”.
James took the wheel and we enjoyed a leisurely drive along the coast, back to our own home in Latrobe.
Mendocino County proved to be a magical getaway that blends romance and family fun into a weekend vacation. It is certainly something to remember.