The popular image of the safari, especially in the West, is inseparable from Kenya. At the turn of the last century, gifted writers like Ernest Hemingway and Karen Blixen brought to life the vivid imagery and uplifting life experience that is a Kenyan safari. It is at this time that major celebrities of the time, such as Teddy Roosevelt and Prince Edward, traveled to Kenya on safari. And so the safari gained a certain snobbish appeal. Celebrities went because it was expected of them. And those who were on the way because the safari was part of the certification they needed on the way. If you want to get a glimpse of the mood and character of the players at that time, read Hemingway’s intriguing tale “The Brief Happy Life of Francis Macomber.”
Nowadays, however, a Kenyan safari is accessible to many more people. Despite competition from other destinations, Kenya remains at the heart of the African safari experience. The magnificence and diversity of the wildlife and landscape is second to none. You are guaranteed to check off the entire list of the big five: lion, buffalo, leopard, rhino, and elephant. Other lesser known but essential and collegiate members of the savannah ecosystem also abound. The kaleidoscope of landscape unfolds the magnificent Rift Valley, Central Highlands, savannah grasslands, snow-capped Mount Kenya and the desolate moonscape of the north. Perhaps that is why experts advise all those faithful lovers of wildlife and nature that at least once in their lives they should participate in a safari in Kenya.
Kenya has more than 50 national parks and game reserves where wildlife is protected. But as you already suspect, on an average safari you can’t expect to cover them all. So it’s a good thing that you get good value by visiting just a few of them. This is unless, of course, you have plenty of time and can afford to go off the beaten path. The most popular and a must-choose for those with limited time and budget are: Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Lake Nakuru, Aberdares, Samburu and Tsavo. The best in the off the beaten path category for wildlife or back to nature activities are: Kakamega Forest, Marsabit, Meru, Mount Kenya, Mount Elgon and Shimba Hills.
Maasai Mara is the big one. This is where you should go even when all you can spare is two nights. This is mainly where all those wildlife videos in Kenya are filmed. The Mara, as the Maasai Mara Game Reserve is commonly known, is part of the ecosystem that includes Tanzania’s equally famous Serengeti. Covering 320 square kilometers, it is nestled in the southwestern corner of the country. The Mara offers wildlife in such variety and abundance that it is hard to believe. On a two-night visit, I saw lions, rhinos, hippos, crocodiles, giraffes, wildebeests, zebras, buffaloes, warthogs, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, buffaloes, leopards, nine types of antelopes, and elephants. Birds also abound: secretary birds, cranes, storks, vultures and ostriches.
It is in the Mara that perhaps the most spectacular event in the natural world takes place. I am referring to the annual migration of millions of wildebeest and zebras from the Serengeti in search of water and pasture. The chronology of the phenomena is conditioned to the rains and occurs between June and August. The reverse trip is usually done in October. With or without the migration, the Mara has a large number of resident animals and you are sure to have a good wildlife viewing experience whatever time of year you visit. If you have enough funds, consider taking a balloon ride over the reserve. This popular and utterly memorable ride usually begins before sunrise and includes a champagne breakfast. The Mara is 5 hours from Nairobi by road and 45 minutes by plane.
Amboseli National Park is located on the lower slopes of the mighty Kilimanjaro, whose peak lies just across the Tanzanian border. It is quite an experience to see Kilimanjaro floating above the clouds early in the morning. As the photography buff can already imagine, the mountain provides a spectacular backdrop for animal photography. Amboseli is famous for its huge herds of elephants. You will also see buffalo, black rhino, zebra, wildebeest and other simple animals. Lions and other cats can be seen, but they are less common here than in the Mara. The park is 3 hours from Nairobi by road and can be reached via Namanga, the border post between Kenya and Tanzania.
Lake Nakuru’s claim to fame rests on its flamingos and the more than 400 species of birds found here. The lake itself is a soda lake on the floor of the Rift Valley. The sight of the sometimes millions of flamingos is quite spectacular. From a distance, the lake appears ringed in pink. Lake Nakuru is also home to a sanctuary for the endangered black and white rhino. Lions, Rothschild’s giraffes, buffalo and baboons are all residents here. The park is the most accessible of Kenya’s largest parks and is only two hours from Nairobi by road.
At the same distance from Nairobi as Lake Nakuru is Aberdares National Park. The park has a diverse topography that includes waterfalls, rainforests and the rivers that supply millions of Nairobi’s people with water. The flora and fauna are unique and are not found anywhere else in the country except on Mount Kenya. Leopard, elephant, rhino and the rare bongo can be found here. But the dense vegetation and inclement weather make it difficult to spot animals. However, you are guaranteed to see some animals, especially elephants and buffalo, at the illuminated watering holes of the two famous tree hotels, The Ark and Treetops.
Those who study the history of the British royal family will remember that it was at Treetops in 1952, where the then-Princess Elizabeth was staying on her honeymoon, that her father, King George VI, died. She descended from Treetops to assume the grueling role of presiding over the empire’s remote domains and colonies. If you stay at Treetops, you’re sure to run into some of her fans.
Although not as famous as the Mara, the Samburu National Park is another refuge for wildlife. Here you will see lions, elephants, cheetahs and the elusive leopard. Some animals are unique to this northern park: Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, kudu, and gerenuk. You will find the semi-arid landscape quite dramatic. On your trip to Samburu, you may also want to visit the nearby Shaba and Buffalo Springs Game Reserves. Also, this is the place to go on a camel safari. Samburu is three hours from Nairobi by road.
Tsavo is so big, all 20,000 square kilometres, that it is administered as two units: Tsavo West and Tsavo East. This is the closest park to Mombasa on the coast. The park is three and a half hours from Nairobi by road. You will find large herds of elephants, especially in Tsavo East. Tsavo West is teeming with crocodiles, vervet monkeys, antelope, baboons, giraffes, and hippos. It is in Tsavo that poachers were most successful in their bloody racket and this saw a dramatic drop in the elephant population. The good guys have taken the lead in recent years and the numbers are picking up.
But the Kenyan authorities are still highly suspicious of the future of the elephant in Tsavo. The country is very active in seeking a permanent ban on the international trade in ivory. I wish at this point to declare to everyone that I am a great admirer of the African elephant. I think this is the true king of the jungle and not that overrated suitor, the lion. You may remember from the movie “The Man Eaters of Tsavo” how the cowardly lions disrupted the construction of the railway in the Tsavo area by feeding on the labor force. Would true royalty be involved in such a shameful matter?
Kenya is a year-round safari destination. The rains come around April-May and November-December. However, this does not greatly affect travelers’ ability to get around. This is with the exception of the heavily forested Aberdares. In the rainy season, the roads in Aberdares are extremely slippery and the park is sometimes closed. Generally, the best time to go on safari is during the drier months, when the grass is short and game viewing is much easier. But in areas like the Mara, animals are so plentiful that you’ll see plenty of them no matter what the season. The high tourist season falls around January to February and from July to August. From April to June it is the low season and prices for accommodation in hostels can be up to 40% lower than in the high season.
Accommodation on a safari ranges from basic camps to luxury lodges and tented camps. Up in the bush, you’ll be pleasantly surprised that all the trappings of 5-star accommodations are available. But if you want to have a rough time, you’ll find campsites in almost every game reserve and national park. Information on accommodation options in Kenyan hotels, hostels and resorts is available online.
It is generally recommended to take a Kenya safari tour package with a guide that includes transportation, park fees, and accommodation. The reason for this is that the tour guides are usually well informed about the animals, where to find them and how to get there, and have other useful local knowledge. Take a look at some offers of various durations and budgets.
But if you have a lot of time and need more freedom to move around, rent a car in Nairobi or Mombasa. For car rental in Kenya, you can choose between self-drive and chauffeur-driven vehicles. On a safari, wear light cotton and linen clothing. Warmer clothing is needed for the evenings and for your early morning game drive. Some waterproof clothing is recommended between March and June and October and December.
You should bring a hundred pairs of sunglasses. The glare you experience in bright tropical light is a new and uncomfortable experience for most. It is also a good idea to bring a pair of binoculars. They are very useful for spotting animals and will make you the envy of your less informed travel companions.
Copyright © Africa Point