Nakuru, Baringo, Bogoria and the Kerio Valley in the Central Rift are packed with rich natural and cultural attractions to thrill any tourist. Nakuru is arguably the cheapest city among Kenya’s six major urban centers in terms of food and accommodation. The most prominent feature is Lake Nakuru National Park, 5km south of the city center. Waterfowl, especially the flamingo, congregate along the shorelines by the thousands. Nakuru was described as the world’s most fabulous ornithological site in the early 1960s and has yet to hold this prestigious title despite some conservation challenges that have seen a reduction in the flamingo population. The park also has a variety of large mammals, including large herds of buffalo, impala, zebra, and the rare white rhino and Baringo giraffe, which are easily seen during a game drive. The park also has lions and leopards, but a lot of patience is required to see them.

There are two lodges within the park: Lake Nakuru Lodge and Sarova’s Lion Hill Lodge. It is recommended to book these hostels in advance, especially during the holiday season, not to mention that they are a bit pricey. There are also public and special campsites. For special campsites, prior reservation is necessary. Others in Nakuru include the Meneganai Crater, which can be accessed by a murram track, 5 km north of the city. Menengai is listed as the second largest crater in the world and offers a classic vantage point of the city of Nakuru and the lake, as well as the highlands of Laikipia and the agricultural settlements of Subukia and Dundori. The crater is a perfect spot for a picnic, photography, and outdoor dining and drinking.

There is the Hyrax prehistoric site just near the town and Lord Egerton’s Castle at Ngata, run by the National Museums and Egerton University. Accommodation outside Nakuru Park is plentiful and varied to suit everyone’s wants and budgets. There are hotels, guesthouses and private camps, all with a unique atmosphere and individual characteristics to suit various tastes and interests.

Travelers with little more time will find visiting Baringo a worthy experience. It’s about 100 km from Nakuru and traffic is minimal, although goats and potholes in the road become increasingly unpredictable, especially after the equator. Important landmarks include the Lake Bogoria Inlet on the right and the Kabarnet Junction on the left a few kilometers further on. Drive towards Marigat and after passing the town, look for a turnoff from the road, after which you will enter the Kampi Ya Samaki Mall, the commercial base of Lake Baringo. It’s pretty hot and humid, but it’s a beautiful place to be. Here again there is something for everyone, from bird watching, water sports, and cultural and historical sites. More than 450 species of birds have been seen around Lake Baringo, which is also famous for reptiles such as crocodiles, turtles, and snakes.

The story is told of how in the late 18th century, the Maasai and Samburu who had lost their cattle to raids came to settle this once fertile land. The Maasai called the residents I’I Chamus for their uncanny ability to anticipate raids. Towards the end of the 19th century, they robbed and started fishing. The Europeans then gave them the name ‘Njemsi’ and the Njemps today still herd cattle, fish and grow crops. The Njemps are a key attraction and a visit to them is made more exuberant by the boat ride on the lake. Hippos and crocodiles abound in this lake, so swimming is not recommended. The first European to see Lake Baringo was Joseph Thomson in 1883. He had to get on a table to shoot an elephant because the grass was so tall! Permanent streams from the surrounding hills fed the lake, and the area was rich in wildlife. Today, the rivers have dried up and the human population has grown with its corresponding agricultural activities and settlements. However, the place retains an aura of desert.

In the 1950s, David Roberts, an alligator hunter for the Dragon Tanning Company, settled on the lakeshore with his wife Betty and started a fish factory before building Fish Eagle Camp for tourists. In 1963, the lake rose 20 feet, submerging his house and destroying the fish factory. In 1966, a newly widowed Betty was left with six children, but she sold Fish Eagle Camp to Mike Skinner, who built the family lodge that is now part of Block Hotels’ Lake Baringo Club. Betty still lives above the defunct fish factory next to the popular Roberts’ Camp. Lake Barinog Club remains one of the region’s leading tourist hotels offering full board, self catering accommodation in attractive cabins and cheaper bands or tents. The Thirsty Goat Restaurant has a well stocked bar and delicious dishes at reasonable prices.

It is convenient to walk along the shore of the lake and watch the birds. Hippos graze on the grass at night, while crocodiles can also be seen sunning themselves along the lake shore. Guests can swim in the Baringo Club pool for a small fee. For a slightly lower budget, the Soy Safari Lodge within Kampi ya Samaki is a safe alternative. It sits beautifully by the lake. One can get a view of the lake and its island in the distance. The lodge has a swimming pool and offers boat rides on the lake and Njemps Islands for a fee.

For those with time and deep pockets, the Island Camp is worth the price. Booking in advance is always recommended as it is a popular site and transport needs to be arranged from the lakeside. The visitor leaves the car on dry land and boards a hotel ship. The Island Camp is an exclusive luxury venue, which has won several national awards. From Baringo, you can visit neighboring Lake Bogoria, which is equally popular. It is 15 km from the main road and about 20 km from Baringo. Lake Bogoria is famous for its rich bird life. It is the second home of Kenya’s flamingos, sometimes registering up to a million birds. This is in addition to many other waterfowl.

Another geographical feature to marvel at here is the hot springs. The hot springs have continued to fascinate visitors for generations. The Tugen myths surrounding the feature make a visit worthwhile. It’s fun to see how quickly hot water gushing from the ground can boil eggs. There are campsites where picnicking families can spend the day enjoying this well-protected national park. If you’re lucky, you might see the rare antelope known as the Greater Kudu.

The Lake Bogoria Lodge, a three-star hotel in a pleasant setting just outside the park, offers accommodation. The hotel is a bargain lover’s paradise and one can swim in the natural hot water drawn from the underground springs. At the gate of the park is the Papyrus Hotel, a low-budget spot suitable for visitors who are only interested in a drink or nyama choma. Baringo has one of the most successful irrigation projects supported by the Pekera River, one of the rivers that feed Lake Baringo. The Pekera Irrigation Plan produces watermelons, onions and tomatoes. Stop in Marigat, a township between Lakes Baringo and Bogoria, to purchase these fruits and vegetables. However, a visit to Baringo is incomplete without a circuit through the Kabarnet-Sacho circuit. It turns off after Marigat from Baringo to the right. As you do so, you will find the tastiest goat meat popularly known as koriema, after a village of Marigat and Kabarnet where goats come from local lore that the area has special medicinal plants that make up the diet of the local goat. Koriema meat is available at the Koriema shopping center along the road or in the town of Kabarnet.

Kabarnet is located on the slopes of the Tugen Hills overlooking the spectacular Kerio Valley to the west and Lakes Baringo and Bogoria to the east. The Kabarner Hotel is just 2 km north of the city and is a pleasant stopover with beautiful gardens that are perfect for relaxing and having a bite to eat or a drink. To see the Kerio Valley properly, drive a few kilometers west towards Iten. There are comfortable viewpoints from where you can take pictures. If time permits, a trip to the Kerio River at the bottom of the valley can enrich the experience. After Kabarnet you follow the Sacho route along the Tugen Hills towards Eldama Ravine. This is one of the most scenic roads I have ever driven. It is very panoramic and is made even more picturesque by the beautiful natural vegetation. In Kiptangich there is another viewpoint and a campsite where a group can stop to take photos or eat. Not far from here is Sacho, the home of retired President Daniel Moi. The path takes you to Eldama Ravine, which takes you back to the Nakuru – Baringo road near Kabarak.

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